Visiting the Hagia Sophia

The Hagia Sophia was the largest church in the world for over 1000 years. The first (built in 360 CE) and second (built in 415 CE) versions were destroyed by the fires of rebellions in 403 and 532 respectively. in 532 Emperor Justinian, the second major figure of Byzantium, was said to have massacred up to 30,000 rebels of the Nike Revolt in the confines of the Hippodrome, and within 39 days of the Revolt commenced work on the Hagia Sophia. Most likely as a statement of his ultimate authority.

So it was the major place of worship for the Christians of the Eastern Roman Empire and Constantinople the city state till 1453. The Ottomans converted it to a mosque, clearly as such a wondrous place should not be destroyed. After the Republic of Turkey was proclaimed in the 1920s, it became a museum, inviting visitors from across the world, but only its upper gallery, or second floor.

We visited the Hagia Sophia while it (she?) is undergoing major restoration work. The entire building is covered by the familiar green cladding of scaffolds, while the interior is disfigured by large metal scaffold towers, and the central dome mostly hidden from view. Visitors are shown the upper gallery only, while the lower gallery or floor is a currently functioning mosque, i.e. for prayer. 

I really only noticed how awful this was after buying the guide book which showed the magnificence of the views unimpeded. The building has been damaged by earthquakes repeatedly over the centuries, and been restored to its (her?) original internal appearances. Huge buttresses have been added over the centuries outside the building to help stabilise it.

After the Ottomans captured Istanbul in 1453, their religion forbade the display of human and animal forms, so the mosaics were plastered over. This, however, has preserved many of the mosaics. They were 'uncovered' in the 1950s after the building became a museum.

It was clear though how much damage does exist of the interior decorations. At this time of seeing it for the first time, it was still a magical experience.

The most amazing art works are the holy mosaics, or course. But I was also struck by the wizardry of the ?finials at the top of the marble columns. These are also marble, but have had patterns carved out to form largely botanical decorations. The precision of this work remains undamaged being inside. Similar carvings outside, like at the Hippodrome, are very weathered.

Not all my images have downloaded into my AppleCloud (why ever not!) but one of the most famous is that of Christ, flanked but not shown here, by Mary and John the Baptist. Even this one has undergone loss.

They say the restoration work will take another six months, after beginning only one month ago. A pity of timing, like so many.